Bedding I recommend that you pick up for your new bunny is Yesterdays News bedding.

Eye Troubles:

You will know if the eyes are weepy. You can buy some eye ointment from a rabbit supply store and put it in the eye for a few days until it clears up. Eye irritations can be caused by unsanitary conditions and dusty bedding. I dont suggest using pine shaving or wood based bedding for this reason. It is dusty and can cause a weeping eye. Try cleaning the cage more regularly. Use Yesterdays News for bedding or for the bunny litter box.

Also the rabbits can scratch their eyes if you dont clipper there toenails monthly and this I have seen cause weeping in rabbits that were not clippered regularly. Clippering them monthly and applying the eye ointment cleared the issue in one rabbit that was brought to me.

Moon eye is a genetic defect in bunnies that cause this small white dot to appear. Rabbits with it should not be bred and is a showing dq. It is some form of Glaucoma.

Spay or Neutering - You should really do it if not a breeder

If you are not breeding or showing your bunny, I would strongly urge you to have your bunny spayed or neutered. This can be done between 5 and 6 months old. I almost feel it's cruel to not spay. Spaying just takes out all the hormones. Also told it lengthens their lifespan. Call you local vet experienced in rabbits for more information. You may have to call a few vets to find one your are comfortable with and prices vary for spays significantly.

I highly recommend Dr Greg from Animal Hospital in Sun Prairie. He saved my cocker spaniel. I believe males rabbit neutering are about 80.00 and females around 150.00 is what someone told me. Mention my name as referral to Dr Greg or his staff. Thanks.

Here is a link to behavior modifications for bunnies:

http://www.wisconsinhrs.org/Articles/The%20Biting%20Rabbit.htm 

Litterbox Training Your House Bunny :) a great idea

• Litterbox training takes time - the older your bunny gets the better he or she will do.
• neutering or spaying helps and can be done from 4-6 months old.
• use a few cups of pine pellets or yesterdays news is what I am now reccommending in the litter box. Less mess and no threat of toxic problems. Never use pine shavings as they are too dusty and lead to almost immediate eye irritation.

More info go to:

http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/litter.html

Caring For Your New Bunny

Rule #1 Feeding

• Never feed rabbits or bunnies lettuce. This can lead to sudden death. They do love it but its very bad for them.
• Do not let your bunny eat tall grass from areas that aren't mowed. The can pick up bot fly eggs on their necks.
• Always provide fresh water at all times. Use a water bottle and or big ceramic crock.This needs to be changed daily. bunnies will not drink hot water. This is critical in the summer months.
• Always provide free feed for bunnies under 6 months old. Use a big ceramic or aluminum crock or feeder that can hold a few days worth of feed. If they are pottying in the bowl this needs to be changed daily and cleaned. Plastic bowls and feeders are not recommended as they chew on these and can cause an intestinal obstruction.
• Bunnies need untreated wood to chew on as this helps file down their teeth, which continually grow. Place a piece of wood or apple tree branch in their cage for this purpose.
• Salt licks are not necessary with PenPal feed, but you can provide one. Mineral salt licks are fine as well, but can turn the teeth brown (not a show dq)
• When your bunny is over 6 months old, feed 6 - 8 ounces of rabbit feed each day. Stick to one feed to prevent recurrent molting of fur. Some bunnies will stop eating if you change the feed.
• Once your bunny is over five to six month old, you can feed parsley, carrots, apples, day old bread, potatoe peelings...this is in addition to their regular feed. Remember to feed these in moderation.
• Keep your bunny hutch or home clean daily ideally. Consider litter training your bunny for easier clean up.
• Keep bunnies and rabbit out of direct sun light; if it is over 90 degrees and your bunny is outside, consider put in frozen water filled plastic soda bottles or misting off the cages. Put ice cubes in their water crocks.
• If over 95 degrees, move bunnies into the garage or house for the day....use your own judgement. If bunnies look too hot it is very obvious. They need to be moved quickly and calmly into a cooler enviroment.
• Consider using a fan.
• Consider having your bunny in the house if you only have one or two.

Temperment:

Your new bunny needs time to adjust to his or her new home. He or she could be scared or angry at the new move and losing his or her siblings. The best thing you can do is take your time with your new friend. For the first few days I recommend leaving your bunny alone in the cage and not handling him or her much. If you do want to handle your bunny, take your time. For bunnies over 6 months, offer a piece of carrot rather than rushing in a grabbing your bunny, then gently pet your bunny and let him or her get use to you. Too much activity in the beginning can make your bunny scared. The bunny needs to learn you are a safe person that wont hurt him or her.

Bunnies who have stopped eating should be taken to a vet within 12 hours. Bunnies must continue to eat all the time, not eating can cause digestive problems that can lead to death. Force feeding can be done with a syringe. Feed your bunny "Critical Care for Herbivores", a must have for all bunny owners and supplied by your veterinarian. For any bunny owner, I recommend having this as a staple in your house. Full grown bunnies should eat 20-30 mL three times per day. Again, if your bunny is not eating, he should see a vet. Have the critical care on hand for emergencies when the vet isn't yet open. If your bunny is not eating, you can't get to a vet, and he won't take the critical care, try this formula:

One large level scoop KMR (kitten milk replacement)

One large level scoop Critical Care

One large drop of Karo syrup

Mix hot water in until the consistency is like cream. Try feeding this to your bunny. KMR is rich for them, but they need the calories especially when they haven't been eating.

Bunny snacks can be raisins or any other dried fruit, graham crackers, dried banana chips, unsalted peanuts, fruit flavored yogurt, honey nut cheerios, pretty much anything that your bunny likes. Keep in mind, all of these things are snacks only, not to be given in large amounts. Too much of these snacks can and will cause a digestive system imbalance. NOTE: Chocolate is toxic in bunnies just as it is in dogs

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Chew toys are an essential need for bunnies of all ages. Bunnies teeth continue to grow for their entire life, so it is imperative that they have things to chew on to help keep their teeth trimmed down. Chew toys can be things like straw and natural wood (except redwood), with or without bark. You can purchase straw in a bale, loose, or woven into baskets. Baskets are a great chew toy that they can play with too! Wood should be dried first before giving it to your bun. Tree branches and scrap wood are good, in addition to a log for the fire. Chew toys are a great diversion for your house bun to keep him from damaging your possessions.

Indoorcages and hutches for sale

I usually have a few used indoor all wire cages or outdoor wooden hutches for sale. Email me to purchase one They range is price from 30.00 to 80.00 each.

Bunny Equipment, Cages and Other Info

Klubertanz has lots of bunny equipment, cages and medicines for your bunny and they are knowledgeable about their uses.

Here is there link:

http://www.klubertanz.com/

For some real neat indoor bunny cages you can order them online here:

https://www.kwcages.com/